Something of a local legend, Onno’s small beige upstairs dining room under the unlovely Bourj Hammoud flyover is host to some of the best Armenian food in Beirut. First-timers will swoon for kebab with dark cherries, small birds cooked in pomegranate sauce, Armenian salads, manteh, sou berag and more. The rest of us come back whenever we can – good thing it’s very affordable