Al-Ferdaous

Cavernous, even by Lebanese standards. This 1,000-odd-seater giant is nonetheless worth a visit even if there are only a few of you; residents say this is some of the best food around. Our visit delivered the goods: a menu with several unusual variations; even the trusty favourites were slightly surprising, in a good way. Go for the tangy kafta meatballs with pomegranate syrup and the Ehden speciality, kibbet qaras, a large, baked kibbeh strongly spiced with cinnamon and stuffed with pine nuts and minced meat. The spicy potatoes, too, were sublime. The panorama of the valley alone deserves the trip, as long as you get to sit near it.