La Bodeguita Del Medio

Cigar-smoking, rum-guzzling and Guevara-worshipping are all encouraged at this Cuban shrine.

Starting life as a bohemian Havana hangout (attracting the likes of Ernest Hemingway) La Bodeguita del Medio has steadily grown into an international franchise. This Beirut branch is the latest, finally adding some Cuban cuisine to the city’s foodscape.

Inside, panama hats and ceiling fans abound. The in-house bar, cigar humidor and summer terrace make a great setting for some mojitio-slinging (the original La Bodeguita claims to have invented the cocktail, although we were a little disappointed by the mix). The live band even strum apt renditions of ‘Che Guevara’.

We began with the Espinacas al Graten (a spinach gratin), after relying on our waiter to guide us through the labyrinthine menu. As a starter the mixture of cheese and fresh cream, set on a base of seasoned spinach and artichoke, was a tad heavy for the special toasted bread provided – and for our empty stomachs. Mains swiftly arrived: the Pescado de Salsa de Anchoa, a generous hamour fillet, well-seared (boosted by a butter and lemon sauce) and dotted with anchovies, and the Bodeguita Filete, an equally hearty serving of beef steak, marinated in coriander and lemon oil.

The vegetables on both our plates were a well-selected, although slightly lifeless, accompaniment. Served with a show-stealing mashed potato (and it’s not often we get to use that phrase) both dishes were satisfying, but not the ‘Creole’ experience we were pining for.

Lebanese restaurant-goers are a tough nut to crack: demanding, yet reluctant to leave their comfort zone. But it’s equally frustrating when a kitchen with so much potential caters to the play-it-safe crowd – the homemade flan is the closest you feel to the revolutionary
side of the isle here.