Kampaï is a bright, well-organised space, around an open kitchen busy with black-clad chefs. The staff are polite and efficient, and if you’re careful the bill can be a lot cheaper than you might expect. Try a plate of steamed edamame beans, or bowl of elegantly spiced Thomyum soup with vast hunks of squid, huge prawns and mussels, white fish and the bite of fresh coriander leaves lurking in its depths. We also liked a ‘Kampaï Honey’ starter of shrimps on shredded cabbage with honey sauce, and the wide selection of sushi. This is fun, luscious Asian fusion food for grown ups, by a kitchen that knows what it’s doing.